So, Valrhona recently launched a fourth type of chocolate. They’re calling it Dulcey and it’s basically caramelised white chocolate, so not really chocolate at all then, they also already make a caramelised milk chocolate so I can’t think what really marks this out as so very different. Regardless. There was much gentle teasing of the brand, as their latest and greatest bore more than a passing resemblance to that old childhood favourite; the Caramac – read Chocablog’s amusing side by side comparison. Of course Valrhona is a highly accomplished bean to bar operation, so all jesting aside, it’s a far more complex and palatable thing than that sweet shop bar, though I’m still inclined to class it as confectionary rather than chocolate, it’s not something I’d nibble as is (it’s searingly sweet even for this sweet tooth). No, where Valrhona’s Dulcey comes into it’s own, is as an ingredient for desserts and patisserie.
At the launch we were treated to a number of desserts made using the bar, of which the most successful was a simple tart that allowed the caramel richness to take centre stage. My first brain splurge was that it would be fantastic paired with bananas in a kind of indulgent banoffee pie, I also think it would make great chunky chips in a dark chocolate brownie, or even as a contrasting layer paired with serious dark chocolate in a dramatic tart.
By the time my sample had arrived, along with another bar gifted by Chocblog, I had made my decision; I’d combine some of my favourite flavours, banana and ginger, in a loaf cake and crown it with a drizzly, drippy Dulcey ganache. This is adapted from the same Nigella recipe that I used last year for my banana bread with candied bacon butter post. The Dulcey turns literally to liquid butterscotch as a ganache, yes it’s super sweet, but sometimes that’s what you want.
175g plain flour
3-4 VERY ripe bananas mashed (I like to keep one in chunks for texture)
150g light muscovado sugar
125g unsalted butter, melted
2 large eggs beaten
pinch of salt
2 teaspoons baking powder
half a teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
about 4 pieces of stem ginger to taste along with a tablespoon of the syrup
120g Valrhona Dulce, finely chopped
75g double cream
Preheat the oven to 170 degrees.
Mix flour with the baking powder, bicarbonate of soda and salt
In a large bowl, beat together the butter with sugar, then add the eggs one at a time, followed by bananas and ginger. Finally stir in the flour mixture gradually and keep mixing until fully combined. Pour into a buttered loaf tin and bake in the centre of your oven for about 1 hour, or until cooked through and an inserted skewer comes out clean.
When cooked, turn out onto a cooling rack and leave to cool completely.
Probably the easiest way to make the ganache in this instance, as the quantities are fairly small, is to put the cream and Dulce into a bowl and give it a few quick blasts in the microwave, stirring thoroughly between each blast until it’s completely melted and glossy. If you don’t have a microwave (we didn’t buy ours and I think I’ve only ever used it for melting small quantities of chocolate!) then the traditional way is to heat cream in a small pan then pour over very finely chopped chocolate, then keep stirring until there are no lumps left.
Spoon the ganache carefully over the top of the cake, keep quite central as the ganache WILL dribble. Lots.