After the launch of Association Coffee on Monday, I find myself close enough to Shoreditch to orchestrate a detour back to the train station via newly opened Meter. I’ve recently devoped a serious hankering for good pizza, my poor little brain filled with illusively glorious memories of Santa Maria Pizzeria and Pizza pilgrims; the former not quite a hop, skip and a jump away, the latter not open evenings or weekend (yet). Shoreditch is just about close enough to places I regularly frequent to get me pretty excited about the prospect of good pizza by the metre.
My first impression is that they haven’t made much of an effort with the decor; bar a slat partition and a lick of paint it remains completely unchanged from it’s former incarnation as a slightly grungy bar. It turns out it is, the same place that is, owner DJ James Priestley has just decided to add food to his City Arts and Music Project CAMP, joined by Italian chef Valentino Fontana. I choose a comfy sofa to peruse the menu and soak up the atmosphere; large space, low lighting and a slight scruffiness lend a casual air to the restaurant that is relaxing and unfussy.
The drink list is Italian themed with cocktails pleasingly heavy on Campari, Aperol, Vermouths and Prosecco; I keenly spot Antica Formula listed as an ingredient in another drink and request a Negroni made with this delicious sweet vermouth. An excellent rendition is delivered with large enough ice blocks to inhibit a fast melt. Pizza actually only takes up about a third of the the food menu but I’m afraid the rest of the menu gets barely a glance; we’re here for the pizza (Damn. I’ve just read Young and Foodish’s piece on the same place & realised my mistake; FRIED PIZZA – definitely worth a re-visit. And yes pizza fritte is very much on my ‘adventures with my deep fat fryer’ list)
Umm, I hate to dissapoint but I didn’t manage a whole metre on this occasion, I went with a friend and we had half a metre between us (I know, pathetic right. Next time I’m definitely going to eat a whole metre myself). The 9 toppings are sold per the quarter and served in one length, although I’m guessing a metre is as long as you’ll get depending on the size of the oven. I’d like a two and a quarter length with one of each topping please…..
Pizza arrived Neopolitan style and looking pretty damn good. The dough was the highlight; fantastically chewy crust and silky, dying to be folded middle. Our margherita is topped with an incredibly sweet tomato sauce, and although the mozzarella doesn’t wow us there’s no denying it’s good; we’re polite and don’t fight over the single basil leaf. The melanzane is delicious; aubergine a little over greasy as is it’s want, daubed with ricotta and fantastically flavoursome.
No, not as good as the two places previously mentioned but excellent none the less; fantastic cocktails, great pizza, fun atmosphere and somewhere I can feasably get to with relative ease. It’s also a pop up, so get there while they’re still around. Oh, and we loved the little pizza wheel provided to slice up your pizza; it provided much amusement, my friend slicing his portion rather more than seemed quite necessary…
Yup. I’m gonna starve myself for a week next time and come back to eat a WHOLE METRE.